IDE TRIPS IN 

JAMAICA 




ILfLyTJ STRATED 

PRICE Z5 CENTS : 



SIDE TRIPS 
IN JAMAICA 

By MARY F. BRADFORD 




ILL US TRATED 



COPYRIGHTED AND PUBLISHED 

BY THE 
SHERWOOD PUBLISHING CO., BOSTON 



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PAGE 

• • • 45 


Clothing . 
Fees . . 










55072 


... 42 

... 42 



Historical Introduction 

Preface 

Map 

Itineraries 

Blue Hole 

Blue Mountain Peak 

Browns Town .... 

Castleton Gardens . . 

Claremont 

Dry Harbor .... 

Falmouth 

Holland Bay .... 

Kingston ...... 

Mandeville 

Moneague 

Montego Bay .... 

Montpelier 

Port Antonio .... 

Port Morant and Bath . 

Port Royal 

Spring Bank .... 

St. Anns Bay .... 

Yallahs and Morant Bay 



Hitorar y of Congress 

H'o Copies Received 
OCT 1 1900 

' Copyright «n'try' 

©«*: Avv.c^*<>• 
SECOND COPY. 

Delivered to 

OBOES DIVISION, 

NOV 28 1900 



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Copyrighted, 1900, by Sherwood Pub. Co. All rights reserved. 
Illustrated and printed at the Press of George H. Ellis, Boston. 






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r T^HIS little book is intended to supply the need of a practical 

guide for tourists contemplating a visit to the Island of 

Jamaica, and contains trips for those having limited or unlimited time. 

In the first portion of the book is presented in the simplest form, 
and in as few words as possible, an historical sketch of Jamaica, " the 
Princess of the Antilles," including the early and more recent his- 
tory, physical features of the island, agriculture, government, prin- 
cipal cities and towns, with their location and points of interest. 

The second portion of the book, giving the itineraries, is divided 
into four parts : — 

Part I. is devoted to trips suitable to tourists having but a week to 
spend on the island, the usual time in staying over one steamer. 
The steamers of the United Fruit Company are timed to arrive in 
Port Antonio on Monday morning, and the days are planned with 
reference to that time ; though, owing to stress of weather and other 
causes, they are occasionally from five to ten hours late, which will, 
of course, cut the trip short one day. 

Parts II., III., and IV., endeavor to give, in a condensed form, as 
complete information as possible regarding points of interest, hotels, 
trains, and expenditures for the tourist with unlimited time. 

No attempt has been made to give elaborate descriptions of places 
or people, but merely to introduce the tourist to the principal points 
of interest, how to reach them, and the expense of the various trips. 

These carefully compiled itineraries were made up by an Ameri- 
can lady resident for a number of years on the island, and are the re- 
sult of personal tours taken during her residence. The information 
is complete and accurate in every particular, and the tourist may feel 
perfect confidence in following it. 

The information herein contained is supplementary to that given 
in "A Jamaica Outing, ' r price 10 cents, issued by the Sherwood 
Publishing Company, Boston, Mass. 



Historical Introduction 



'T^he Early History of Jamaica is intertwined with the history of 
-*" Columbus on his voyages. The island was discovered by that ad- 
venturer on May 3, 1494, while sailing south from Cuba. Two days 
later he anchored off what is now known as Port Maria on the north- 
ern coast of Jamaica. Columbus named it Santa Gloria on account 
of the beauties of the harbor. Later he sailed to Oracobessa, land- 
ing amid some opposition from the Indians, although they were soon 
subdued. The discoverer named the island Santiago, though it still 
retains its Indian name, Xaymaca, now called Jamaica. Later the 
voyage was continued to Montego Bay and Morant Point, which 
ended the first visit of Columbus to the island. 

On May 9, 1502, he started on his fourth voyage with a fleet of 
four ships and one hundred and fifty men. On June 23, 1503, he 
made Dry Harbor, and on June 24 put into Don Christopher's Cove, 
in a desperate condition, his vessels bored full of holes, and with a 
disheartened and mutinous crew. The ships were grounded, being 
run ashore as the only alternative. Columbus stayed on his ships 
for more than a year, awaiting the arrival of relief from Spain, de- 
pending for food on the generosity of the natives and the pillaging 
journeys of his crews. At length aid arrived ; and Columbus set sail 
for Spain June 28, 1504, and died heart-broken and in poverty at 
Seville, May 20, 1506, never knowing that he had discovered a new 
continent. 

The Later History of the island has been one of almost continuous 
progress, beginning with the conquest of the Spanish invaders by 
the English. The first capital of the island, Sevilla Nueva, was 
founded by Diego Columbus, the son of the discoverer, and is now 
marked by only a few stones on the estate of Seville, near St. Ann's 
Bay. Later Spanish Town was established as the capital of the 
island, then called St. Jago de la Vega. The English conquest 



dates back to the attacks of Sir Anthony Shirley in 1590 and of 
Colonel Jackson in 1635, both retiring after extorting ransom. In 
1654 a fine fleet left England for the express purpose of conquering 
the island, under command of Colonel Venables and Admiral Penn, 
the father of William Penn. St. Jago was taken in May, 1635. 
The last remnant of the Spaniards was at length driven from the 
island ; but a number of fierce and warlike slaves of mixed African 
and Indian blood took to the mountains, and successfully defied 
conquest. These people are still known as the Maroons, and their 
descendants now live at Mooretown. 

The Next Chapter of Jamaica's history is the record of her pirate 
chiefs, who preyed upon Spanish shipping and founded Port Royal 
as the headquarters of their ill-gotten gains. The city is said to 
have been the richest and the most licentious in modern history. 
On the 17th of June, 1692, a great earthquake shook the island, 
and in two minutes destroyed the city, transforming the richest 
spot on earth to the poorest. This was looked upon as the direct 
judgment of the Almighty upon this most wicked city. Pesti- 
lence followed the earthquake floods, and those who survived the 
one died from the other. The overthrow of Port Royal led to the 
establishment of Kingston on the Liguanea Plain. The enmity be- 
tween France and England was reproduced in the island, where the 
French burned plantations, and took away slaves to the value of 
$325,000. This culminated years later, at the time of the American 
War for Independence, the recognition of that country by France 
causing martial law to be proclaimed on the island. Admiral Rod- 
ney, Jamaica's beloved hero, won a great victory over the French 
admiral, De Grasse, saving the island at a most critical period. 
Rodney's statue, by John Bacon, is located in the public square at 
Spanish Town. 

The Emancipation Act of the imperial government was epoch-mak- 
ing in its far-reaching effects. It provided that " from and after the 
1st of August, 1834, all slaves in the colonial possessions of Great 

8 



Britain should be forever free, with an intermediate state of four 
and six years." Although ^"5,853,975 sterling was awarded as 
compensation, it went mostly to pay creditors ; and the condition of 
the sugar-planters was most pitiful. They were left without re- 
sources, a scarcity of labor, and a poor market. The adoption of a 




Golden Vale. 



free-trade policy a few years thereafter reduced the price of sugar 
one-half and made the profits correspondingly less. As a result, 
many estates were abandoned, and are to day in a state of decay. 
The Government of the island from the first has been administered 
by the home country through a governor. The first assembly dates 
back to the time of Charles II. Members were returned from twelve 
districts, and met at Spanish Town. The colonial history of Jamaica 
is one of constant wrangling, the constitution being repealed and 
restored from time to time. The uprisings of the slaves caused mas- 
sacres of their white masters, among the most horrible in all history. 
By an order of the Queen in council, May 19, 1S84, a new constitu- 
tion was granted the island, in which it was declared that the legis- 
lative council of the island should consist of the Governor, the Senior 



Military Officer, the Colonial Secretary, the Attorney-general, and 
the Director of Public Works ; not more than five members nomi- 
nated by the crown, and nine members elected by tax-payers of 
twenty shillings and upwards. There are nine electoral districts, 
and a member was appointed from each. The governor is president 
of the legislative council. There is a Privy Council of not exceed- 
ing eight persons appointed by the Queen, also a Parochial Board in 
each parish which manages its affairs. 

The Political Divisions of the island are three counties and four- 
teen parishes, namely : — 

Middlesex County. Surray County. Cornwall County. 

Parishes. Parishes. Parishes. 

St. Catherine. Kingston. St. Elizabeth. 

St. Mary. St. Andrew. Trelawney. 

Clarendon. St. Thomas. St. James. 

St. Ann. Portland. Hanover. 

Manchester. Westmoreland. 

The Area of the Island is 4,193 square miles, the extreme length 
being 144 miles, and the width varying from 20 to 50 miles. The 
500 miles of coast line give many beautiful and safe harbors for 
commerce. The highest mountains are the Blue Mountains, the 
highest peak being 7,360 feet above sea level. 

The Physical Features of the island make Jamaica essentially an 
agricultural country. Coffee, banana, and cocoanut growing are car- 
ried on most profitably. Sugar was the powerful interest previous 
to the freeing of the slaves. Rum is manufactured extensively, and 
unrefined sugar is made in small quantities. The coffee and fruit 
industries have increased enormously under the patronage of foreign 
companies, the increased shipping facilities and the opening up of 
the railroad naturally resulting in an era of marked prosperity. 
The Climate of the Island is wonderfully varied, owing to the very 
low and very high altitudes to be found within its borders. The 
fact that in the lowest altitudes one requires a blanket for sleeping 



indicates that cool nights insure delightful rest. The air is dry ; and 
an average of So degrees during the hot season, with a maximum of 
87 degrees, is not nearly so oppressive as the same heat would be in 
America, owing to the humidity of our atmosphere. The Jamaican 
of lower altitudes seeks the higher ones for a change, but is apt to 
suffer from the cold. The constant blowing of the sea breeze dur- 
ing the day, called by natives " The Doctor," is succeeded at night- 
time by a breeze from off the hills, producing a delightful tempera- 
ture at all seasons. 

Visitors should avoid any violent exertion during the heat of the 
day, say 11 a.m. till 3 p.m., before and after which tramping and 
other exercise can be taken with impunity. The remarkable equal- 
ity of the temperature, both summer 'and winter, is making Jamaica 
a summer as well as a winter resort ; and tourists report delightful 
trips to the island between July and October. The rainy season 
covers the month of May in spring and October in the fall, begin- 
ning to rain at the new or full moon, continuing day and night for a 
fortnight with great violence. 

The rule in the island is to keep under cover after sunset, to avoid 
the night chill, the darkness shutting down immediately without any 
twilight, as in the northern hemisphere. No European can stand 
the mid day heat, wet clothes, exposure at night, or excessive use of 
alcholic stimulants. Let him exercise proper care in these particu- 
lars, and he will find Jamaica much more healthful than many por- 
tions of the North, the recuperating effects of a visit being every- 
where recognized by physicians as marvellous. 

The Scenery of the Island surpasses description. No one ever 
visits Jamaica without an ardent desire to return, and the memories 
of the trip are as enchanting as fairyland. Everywhere surprises 
await one, the lavishness of Nature's bounty being nowhere more evi- 
denced than in this exquisitely delightful island. 
The Inhabitants of the Island are nearly all colored, there being 
few white residents. The original inhabitants were a race of peace- 




United States Consulate, Kingston. 



loving Indians of the Arawak tribe, such as still inhabit British Gui- 
ana, Cuba, Hayti, Porto Rico, and the Bahamas. The Spaniards 
promptly exterminated these peaceful people, and were in turn ex- 
pelled by the English, at their conquest of the island. The importa- 
tion of slaves from Africa was begun at an early date, and continued 
up to March, 1808. The African slaves imported by the Spanish 
were left by their masters to fight the English ; and their descendants, 
beino- a mixture of negro and Indian, proved most warlike in actual 
combat. These people are to-day known as the Maroons of the 
Blue Mountains, — an unconquered people with whom the English 
made treaties, and who proved an able ally in the various negro up- 
risings. 

The inability of the English to carry on agricultural pursuits in 
the cane growing lowlands led to the importation of more slaves 
from Africa, a people native to the heat of a tropical sun. 

The traffic increased with sugar cultivation ; and more than half a 
million slaves were landed in the island during the eighteenth cen- 
tury, not including those who were re-exported to other countries. 
The Emancipation Act of British Parliament went into effect Aug. 
1, 1834. Expediency and the uncertainty of negro labor have caused 
planters to introduce coolies from India, and 20,000 of them have 
thus been added to the population. They are an ambitious 
people, and thoroughly reliable, by whom much of the work of the 
island is done. 

The 1 89 1 census in Jamaica showed a total population of 639,- 
491, of which there were: whites, 14,692; colored, 121,955; black, 
488,624; East Indian, 10,116; and 4,104, of which 481 were Chi- 
nese, and the others not indicated. 

The white man in the West Indies is the master, it being out of 
the question for him to perform field labor ; and he must depend 
upon his intellect for supremacy. 

The Principal Cities of the Island are Kingston, the capital, and 
Port Antonio, the commercial centre of the island. There are many 



smaller towns that enjoy much prosperity. Among these are Span- 
ish Town, the former capital, with its historical interests, Mandeville, 
in the orange and coffee growing section, and other towns prominent 
for their agricultural and shipping location. A full description of the 
various points of interest is given in the itineraries. The special 
features of but three of the cities are here given : — 

In Kingston. 

The special points of interest are : 

i. Parade Grounds; statue of Sir Charles Metcalfe. 

2. Shops. 

3. Self-help, for purchase of souvenirs. 

4. Theatre Royal. 

5. Hospital on North Street. 

6. Colonial Bank. 

7. Old Parish Church. 

8. Colonial Secretary's office. 

9. Library and Museum Buildings on East Street. 
10. Court-house, Harbor Street. 

n. Churches. 

1 2. Myrtle Bank Hotel. 

13- Victoria and Jubilee Markets. 

14. Clubs, yacht clubs, and race course. 

15. Rooms of Society of Agriculture and Commerce on Harbor Street. 

In Port Antonio. 

1 . Hotel Titchfield. 

2. The Market. 

3. Shops. 

4. Old Fort. 

5. Plant of the United Fruit Company. 

6. Churches. 

7. Drives to adjoining plantations and shipping ports. 

In Spanish Town. 

1. Rodney " Temple." 

2. The Cathedral; statuary by Bacon; tablets. 

3. King's House. 

4. Rio Cobre Hotel, native cooking. 

15 



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a r i e s 



'~p , HE trips given in Part I. are for tourists with limited time, stay- 
-*- ing over one steamer only, giving a week on the island. The 
usual time of arrival is Monday morning, although from stress of 
weather the steamers are sometimes a few hours late, which would 
shorten the trip proportionately. The time of sailing is practically 
unchanged. See also Part II. 




Titchfield House from the Harbor — Port Antonio. 



Part I . 



AyT ON DAY. — Tourists landing at Port Antonio from the United 
^" A Fruit Company's ships are met by an agent from the Titch- 
field Hotel, who will take charge of their luggage and conduct them 
to carriages for the hotel, where they will find comfortable rooms, 
good table and beds, and excellent sanitary arrangements. 

On arriving at the hotel, — beautifully situated on a hill, — the 

t6 



selection of rooms, adjusting one's self to new surroundings, and 
possibly a few hours' rest are in order. 

After luncheon, carriages may be secured at the hotel office at 
reasonable rates, and a drive of seven miles taken, either to Blue 
Hole along the eastern coast or into the country to the banana 
plantations, and possibly on as far as Mooretown, one of the towns 
inhabited by the Maroons. They are descendants of runaway 
slaves who fled to the mountains, and, secure in their natural strong- 
holds, defied capture, and finally became an independent people. 

Tuesday. — If the drive to Blue Hole be taken on Monday after- 
noon, Tuesday morning may be devoted to a stroll about the town, 
visiting the ruins of the old Spanish fort near the hotel, and an 
excursion to the lower town, taking a peep into some of the little 
shops, which, though perhaps uninviting from the outside, often con- 
tain pretty cotton and muslin dress goods. 

This trip can be easily taken on foot ; but, if one is too weary to 
climb the hill on the return to the hotel, there are carriages or 
'buses, as they are called, which will make the trip for sixpence, or 
12 cents, apiece. 

A delightful way to visit Castleton Gardens * is to make the trip 
from Port Antonio, leaving there on the 6.05 train in the morning for 
Annotta Bay, thirty miles by rail, where carriages are in waiting (per 
telephone order) for Castleton, twelve miles, returning on train ar- 
riving in Port Antonio at 5.35 p.m., making this trip before going to 
Spanish Town. 

On Tuesday afternoon the drive which was not taken Monday 
may be enjoyed. On Tuesday evening the necessary luggage for 
the Kingston trip should be packed. The articles not required, 
such as heavy clothing, etc., may be left in charge of the hotel 
agent, to be put on board the steamer which is to be taken for the 
home trip. Due notice should be given at the office, in order that 
early breakfast may be served and a carriage ordered for the station. 

* See also page 21. 
17 



Wednesday. — The train leaves at 6.05 a.m., and tickets to Kings- 
ton are 12 shillings, or $3, first class, and 6 shillings, or $1.50, 
third class.* The distance is seventy-five miles. [The round trip, 
Port Antonio to Kingston, may be made on Sunday for half-rate.] 
Buy tickets and check baggage through to Kingston, but leave train 
at Bog Walk. There a trap seating three persons and driver may be 
obtained from Mrs. Gibson (who keeps a lodging-house near by the 
station) for the drive to Spanish Town, which will cost 12 shillings, 
or $3. This drive of about nine miles is very beautiful, following 
the course of a river for some distance through a wild gorge, then 
across the level country to the once famous old town. It is advis- 
able to drive directly to the Rio Cobre Hotel, dismiss the trap, and 
order luncheon. There will then be about two hours in which to see 
Spanish Town. It will be found rather warm to walk at this time of 
the day ; and a 'bus had better be engaged, at a cost of 3 shillings, 
or 75 cents, per hour. 

The principal points of interest are the old cathedral, with its 
varied architecture, old tombstones, and one or two excellent monu- 
ments, works of the famous English sculptor, Bacon, the govern- 
ment buildings, — now silent and deserted, except for a few offices, — 
and the King's House, with its great ball-room, banquet-hall, and 
many chambers. It was here that the governors resided when 
Spanish Town was the seat of government, and many and grand 
were the levees held in this famous building. A short drive about 
the town to see some of the old houses now in ruins will fill up the 
time till luncheon at the Rio Cobre, which is usually good, and 
largely of Jamaican dishes. The hotel will provide a trap to the 
station at sixpence a person, and the train leaves for Kingston at 
1.33 P.M. 

On arriving at Kingston, take 'buses or electric cars for hotels, the 
principal ones being Myrtle Bank Hotel, beautifully located near the 

* Many touii?ts prefer to travel third class, where a better opportunity is given to see the people 
of the country. 




Gardens in Rear of Myrtle Bank Hotel, Kingston. 



harbor, and yet directly in the city, Park Lodge, or Emmaville, a 
quiet lodging-house. If Myrtle Bank is selected, the afternoon may 
be profitably spent resting on the veranda until the cool of the 
evening, when a short drive can be taken about the city and to Up 
Park Camp, where the West India Regiment is stationed. The 
black soldiers, in their picturesque Zouave costume and white 
turbans, present a fine appearance. 

Thursday. — In the morning the train may be taken for one of 
the two trips here given, Mandeville or Moneague. The reader 
will remember that these suggestions are for those having only a 

19 



limited time on the island ; therefore, but one of the two trips can 
be taken. 

If the Mandeville trip is selected, the train from Kingston should 
be taken at 7.30 a.m. for Williamsfield. Tickets : first class, 9 shil- 
lings, or $2.25 ; and just half the price, third class. 

Traps are waiting at Williamsfield station to meet this train ; but, 
if a later train is taken, it will be necessary to telegraph to Brooks's 
Hotel, Mandeville, for a trap. The fare is 2 shillings and sixpence, 
or 62 cents, a person. Comfortable board may be obtained at 
Brooks's Hotel, and also at Mrs. Roys's, Mrs. Dillet's, and Mrs. 
Halliday's lodgings. 

Mandeville is a pretty little town, quite English in its appearance ; 
and the afternoon may be pleasantly spent driving about and visiting 
the different coffee and orange plantations. 

Friday. — The next morning the train may be taken either at 6.48 
a.m. or 11.29 A,M - f° r tne return trip to Kingston, arriving there at 
9.15 a.m. or 2 p.m., respectively. 

If one prefers to go to Moneague on Thursday, it will be better 
to leave by an afternoon train for Ewarton, the terminus of the 
branch. From here on there is a beautiful drive of nine and one- 
half miles over Mount Diabolo to the pretty little Moneague Hotel, 
situated in the heart of the country, where a quiet, restful night may 
be spent. Board is from 10 shillings to 14 shillings per day ($2.50 
to $3.50 in our money). 

One of the greatest charms of this trip is the return drive in the 
early morning over the mountain, while the mist lies in the valleys 
below. 

If the early return is made, then on Friday morning a carriage or 
trap may be engaged for a trip to Castleton, a beautiful drive of 
nineteen miles to the Government Botanical Gardens. This will be 
an all-day trip, and the start would better be made early in the 
morning. Luncheon may be obtained at the Castleton Cottages 
Hotel, or, if one prefers to picnic, luncheon can be taken from the 



Kingston Hotel, and tea will be served from the Cottage Hotel, in 
the pretty bamboo arbor. The Gardens contain specimens from all 
parts of the world, and the palm gardens are especially beautiful. 
The drive home is best delayed until rather late in the afternoon on 
account of the heat, which is, however, at no time very severe. 

Saturday. — The next day should be devoted to Kingston, visit- 
ing the Victoria Market early in the morning. Among the other 
principal point of interest are : The Museum, which, while not very 




Office of the United States Consul, Kingston. 

22 



large, is full of interest, containing portraits of all the governors of 
Jamaica, specimens of Jamaica woods, fish, and minerals, and some 
old relics. 

The Self-help, an institution similar to the Women's Exchange in 
the United States, is located on Church Street, and is well worth a 
visit. There are on sale baskets, photographs, articles made of the 
famous lace bark and dagger plant, carved cocoanuts, and other 
curious and useful articles. 

One should not fail to visit Princess Street, and see the quaint 
little negro shops and buy the bright colored bandanna handkerchiefs, 
so distinctively Jamaican, to be obtained here in great variety. 

King's House, the home of the governor, or Hope Gardens, can be 
visited in the late afternoon, when it will be pleasant driving. 

No special directions have been given regarding the location of 
the places visited, as all coachmen and 'bus drivers are familiar with 
these places. If one prefers, the electric cars may be used for 
many of the trips around Kingston. 

'Buses can always be engaged in the court-yard of the Myrtle 
Bank Hotel or on the street ; and a carriage and pair of horses may 
be had at prices ranging from £i to £2, according to the distance 
to be travelled. 

Sunday. — The next day may be devoted to the various churches, 
the Parish Church (Episcopal), Coke Chapel (Wesleyan), and the 
Presbyterian Kirks being the piincipal ones. 

Monday. — On Monday a trip to Port Royal may be taken. The 
time and place of departure of the boats can be obtained at the 
hotel office. Port Royal is the naval station, and is now being 
greatly strengthened by the English government. It has an inter- 
esting history, and was wholly destroyed by earthquake at half- past 
eleven o'clock on the morning of June 17, 1692. 

If one prefers, Newcastle, the camp of the white troops, situated 
on the steep sides of a mountain, may be substituted for the excur- 
sion to Port Royal on Monday. This is a driving trip ; and, if the 

2 3 




he 

GO 



day is clear, the view from Newcastle is very fine. A carriage and 
pair may be obtained to go to Newcastle for from 12 to 18 shillings 
($3 to $4.50 in our money). 

Another trip is to the sugar estate Mona, where one may see the 
interesting workings of a sugar-mill. 

It is but a short distance outside the city, and can easily be seen 
in a morning or afternoon. 

Tuesday. — The Boston steamer is due in Kingston on Tuesday, 
and her time of sailing can be ascertained at the office of the United 
Fruit Company on King Street. If the New York, Baltimore, or 
Philadelphia steamer is to be taken for the home trip, it will be 
necessary to return to Port Antonio, as those steamers do not go to 
Kingston. 




Public Market, West Street, Port Antonio. 



Part II. 



TN the previous chapter the trips or excursions have been planned 
A for the benefit of tourists having only a few days or at most a 
week on the island. For the traveller whose time is unlimited 
more extended itineraries are herewith provided. 

From Port Antonio, beginning with the arrival of the steamer, the 
short excursion already given may be supplemented by the following : 

To Castleton, via Annotta Bay. — The trip to Castleton from 
Port Antonio is, perhaps, more attractive than from Kingston. It will 
be necessary to arrange at the hotel for carriages to meet the train at 
Annotta Bay. This should be done the day before ; and, in order to 
avoid mistakes, two days before is better. At the same time order 
luncheon to be put up for the trip. Take the early morning train 
for Annotta Bay, a pleasant ride of thirty miles. Annotta Bay is 
not attractive enough to claim much time, and it will be better to 
start immediately for the Gardens. This is a beautiful drive of 
eleven miles over an excellent road, the scenery of which is almost 
unrivalled. It should take about two hours, and on arrival extra 
wraps and luncheon may be left at the Castleton Cottages. 

On all trips on the north side of the island do not fail to take 
waterproofs and umbrellas. 

Arrangements may be made at the Cottages for tea or coffee to be 
served with the luncheon, which, if the day proves pleasant, will be 
best taken under one of the bamboo shelters in the garden. From 
the Cottages a path leads directly into the Gardens ; and a longer or 
shorter time may be spent in seeing the beautiful plants, trees, 
palms, etc. It is desirable to see as much of the Gardens as possible 
before the middle of the day, and by twelve o'clock to repair to the 
cool shade of the bamboo arbors in the lower or river garden, the 
part situated on the river. 

If one is fond of river bathing and has remembered to bring a 

27 




ho 



bathing suit, a dip in one of the many pools will be found most 
refreshing. Two hours may be pleasurably spent in rest and re- 
freshment before the return drive to catch the afternoon train at 
Annotta Bay for Port Antonio. Leaving the Gardens at two o'clock 
will give ample time to reach Annotta Bay, as well as for seeing the 
town, if one chooses to do so. 

The Castleton trip for three persons should cost 4 shillings, six- 
pence, round trip, for railroad fare ; 10 shillings each for carriage 
to Castleton; in all, 14 shillings, sixpence, or $3.62. 

To Spring Bank, via Shot Over. — Another trip which will fully 
repay the tourist is a ride up Spring Bank and back by way of Shot 
Over, — a corruption of the ancient name of Chateau Vert, — both es- 
tates located on the mountains near Port Antonio. For this horses 
must be engaged at the hotel office, and the trip is best taken in the very 
early morning. Be sure of a clear day, for the charm of this trip is in 
the beautiful view. It can be done easily in less than three hours, and 
should certainly be taken, as the view from the top of the ridge, 
embracing as it does the Blue Mountains and valleys on one side and 
a long stretch of coast line on the other, makes it not only one of the 
finest in Jamaica, but scarcely to be equalled anywhere. 




29 




The Sugar-cane Cutters. 



Part III. 



'T'HIS chapter is devoted to the itinerary of a trip around the 
*** island with Kingston as the starting-point. 

To Mandeville, via Williamsfield. — Taking the train which 
leaves Kingston at 1.30 p.m., Williamsfield is reached about four 
o'clock. The distance from Kingston to Williamsfield (the railway 
station nearest Mandeville) is forty-five miles. The fare is about 8 
shillings, first class ; third class, 4 shillings. A pleasant up-hill 
drive of four and one-half miles by stage from Williamsfield brings 
us to Mandeville, where we have a choice of the Brooks Hotel and 
two good lodging-houses, Mrs. Roys's and Mrs. Halliday's. 

Brooks Hotel, 8 to 12 shillings per day, American plan. Lodging- 
houses, Mrs. Roys's and Mrs. Halliday's, 6 shillings per day, Ameri- 
can plan, £2 2S. per week. 

The principal points of interest about Mandeville are the orange 
and coffee estates and the drives, of which Spur-tree Hill is the 

3° 



most noted. The climate of Mandeville is delightful, and its peo- 
ple friendly and hospitable. 

From Mandeville one may drive to the Santa Cruz Mountains, 
the air of which is exceptionally beneficial for lung complaints. 
The Pavilion Sanatorium is located at Santa Cruz Mountains, Ja- 
maica, elevation 2,300 feet. With equable temperature and dry at- 
mosphere, it is highly commended by the medical faculty of the 
island ; the accommodations are of the best. The proprietor is 
Mrs. Leslie Alexander, Malvern P.O. 

There is also the Malvern House in the Santa Cruz Mountains ; 
Proprietor, Mr. Isaacs. Rate, 10 shillings, sixpence per day, £2 2s. 
per week. The railway station is Balaklava. The railway fare is 
£1 5J\, first class, from Kingston ; third class, half-rate. Further 
information about this trip can be had by applying at the office of 
the Brooks Hotel. 

TO MONTPELIER, VIA KENDALL OR WlLLTAMSFIELD. The next 

stage in the trip around the island is to drive either to Kendall or to 
Williamsjield, where the train is taken for Montpelier. This is the 
most interesting portion of the railroad ride, crossing, as it does, a 
part of the famous Cockpit Country, both wild and desolate. By this 
time the tourist will have become familiar with the train service, and 
will arrange his time to suit. The train reaches Montpellier in the 
early afternoon. The hotel is one of the most comfortable in the 
island, and a good table is served. Board ranges from 12 to 16 
shillings per day ($3 to $4 of our money). 

The especial points of interest are the large and beautiful pens, or 
grazing farms, of Montpelier and Shuttle-wood, where may be seen fine 
specimens of the famous Indian cattle imported for labor and breed- 
ing purposes ; also the large tobacco fields and cigar factory. 

From Montpelier one may visit Savana-la-7?iar, a carriage drive -of 
some sixteen miles. This portion of the island is very flat and low, 
quite different from the eastern end, and was formerly noted for its 
sugar estates. 




To Montego Bay. — It is only 
nine miles by train from Mont- 
pellier to Montego Bay, the end 
of the railway journey ; and, as 
one emerges from the tunnel 
high above the town, a beauti- 
ful view is presented, — the har- 
bor with its many tiny islands, 
the distant sea, and the town 
with its surrounding hills. The 
Bogue Islands (or atolls) are 
extremely interesting. 

Arriving at Montego Bay, 
cabs may always be found at 
the station for a drive around 
the town. One of the first 
places visited will be the Parish 
Church, which contains one of 
Bacon's masterpieces, the monument erected to the memory of Rose 
Palmer. As the legend runs, this woman was famous, not for her 
good deeds, but for her misdeeds, having in the course of her life 
married and disposed of four husbands. She was finally murdered 
by her slaves, whom she had treated with extreme cruelty. The 
discoloration around the neck of the figure, and also the mark on 
the pedestal resembling a splotch of blood, are said to have appeared 
some time after the erection of the monument, showing positively 
her guilt. This fact may be taken for what it is worth, but no one 
wants to spoil a good story. 

There is another story to the effect that this monument was 
erected to a little Englishwoman who was as sweet and good as Rose 
Palmer was the reverse. 

Montego Bay is the second largest town on the island, and con- 
tains a number of fine old houses. There is an excellent sanitarium 



"Rafti 



"Ml Hil 

— a Popular Sport. 



3- 



here, well located, just out of the town and near a good bathing 
beach. 

To Falmouth. — If one prefers, he may return to Montpellier on 
the late afternoon train for the night, having first made arrange- 
ments for a trap to continue the journey in the early morning along 
the shore road to Falmouth. The other plan would be to spend the 
night at Montego Bay at one of the two lodging-houses, Harrison's, 
on the hill, or Mrs. Payne's, in the town. 

The start for Falmouth would better be made quite early in the 
cool of the morning. The road follows the shore very closely. At 
times the coachmen even drive through the water. No one can fail 
to notice the vivid coloring of the sea, which at this point is particu- 
larly beautiful. A drive of about nine miles brings us to Rose Hall, 
the home of Rose Palmer, mentioned on the previous page. Driv- 
ing into the grounds, the courteous overseer is always pleased to 
show tourists through the old sugar-works, which are still in opera- 
tion. About a quarter of a mile beyond, on a slight elevation at the 
end of a winding drive, stands the old hall, now partly in ruins. 
The old care-taker is proud to show visitors the splendid mahogany 
floor, still kept finely polished, the mahogany balustrade to the stair- 




Along Shore, just outside Port Antonio. 

33 




A Typical Roadway. 



way, and the carved mahogany frieze in the drawing-room. The rest 
of the house is in a state of great dilapidation, but a few of the trees 
of the old garden are still standing. 

Resuming the drive, we continue on the beautiful coast road, reach- 
ing Falmouth (about sixteen miles further on) in time for luncheon 
at one of the lodging-houses. Owing to possible changes, inquiries 
should be made in the town as to the best house to patronize. 

Falmouth is a quaint old town, and was formerly one of the most 
important sugar centres. If one has leisure, a couple of days may 
be spent here, the time being employed in visiting the old sugar 
estates and orange properties, and, of course, the usual walks and 
drives about the town. 

To St. Anns Bay, via Dry Harbor or Browns Town. — Con- 
tinuing the journey, there is a choice of two roads, — still keeping on 
to the coast road or taking what is known as the interior road. 

The especial attractions of the coast road are the caves situated at 
Dry Harbor, about half-way between Falmouth and St. Anns Bay. 

For a part of the way the interior road is mountainous, and also 
passes many sugar estates. Browns Town, by the interior road, is 
over twenty miles from Falmouth. 

There is no choice of lodging-houses, as there is only one in the 
place. The attractions of Browns Town are its delightful climate 
and its charming surroundings. The town itself is best seen by 
walking; and, while there is nothing of especial interest, still the 
market, the churches, and the little shops are all worthy of attention. 
Here, too, one may obtain photographs of all parts of the island 
from the genial Dr. Johnstone. 

When the journey is resumed, a drive of twenty miles brings us to 
Mrs. Watson's lodgings at St. Anns Bay in the parish of St. Anns, 
often called " the garden of Jamaica." On the way the estate 
" Trenant," formerly occupied by Julian Hawthorne, is passed. 

Two or three days may be pleasantly spent in this beautiful 
parish. The first place visited will probably be the Roaring River 

35 





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Falls, and it is quite impossible adequately to describe their unique 
beauty. An enjoyable trip may be had by taking luncheon and 
loitering some time near the bridge under the cool shade of the 
trees and then driving on to Ocho Rios, crossing the eight rivers and 
returning in the same way to St. Anns Bay. 

Another point of interest is the ruins of the Priory Church, a relic 
of the old Spanish days. The church was connected with the mon- 
astery by a long, paved walk. A diligent search will be rewarded 
by finding remains of this flagged walk. 

The parish of St. Anns abounds in beautiful estates, greatly re- 
sembling the old English places. They are principally grazing pens, 
and pimento is grown in large quantities. Jamaica is the only place 
in the world where pimento is raised commercially. Any one in- 
terested in schools will enjoy a day at York Castle, delightfully situ- 
ated high up in the Pedro Mountains. 

To Claremont. — Continuing the journey, a drive of about fif- 
teen miles takes us through the pretty town of Claremont to the 
Moneague Hotel. 

From here drives to other parts of the parish may be taken, the 
most beautiful of which is the drive down Fern Gully, back to the 
Moneague by way of St. Anns Bay. This drive may be taken in 
the reverse order, if desired; but it is prettier to go down than to 
come up the gully to Moneague. 

A choice of two ways of returning to Kingston is open to the 
traveller, — either from the Moneague over Mount Diabolo to Ewar- 
ton, thence by train to Kingston, or continuing the drive through 
Fern Gully to Port Maria, famous for its large cocoanut plantations, 
and then from Albany, eight miles further on, by train to Kingston. 

A double trap with driver from Montego Bay to Browns Town 
should cost about £\ ($20 of our money). From Browns Town to 
St. Anns Bay should be about £2 ($10) more. The ordinary 
drives are from 10 shillings to £1, according to distance. 

The traveller having ample time will have no difficulty in finding 

37 



other points of interest. The coachmen are always ready to give in- 
formation, as, indeed, are all the people on the island. 




Washing in the Brook. 



Part IF. 



>-p*0 Blue Mountain Peak. — The mountain lover has probably 
-** looked longingly at Blue Mountain Peak, and the trip to the 
summit is easily taken from Kingston. A drive of nine miles in the 
early morning brings one to Gordon Town, where arrangements must 
be made for guides and ponies for the peak. 

This trip maybe taken in two ways, — either to go on from Gordon 
Town, reaching the peak late in the afternoon and spending the 
night there in the rather dilapidated hut, or to make arrangements 

38 



previously to spend the night at one of the estates below the peak, 
going on early in the morning. Information concerning these es- 
tates can be obtained at the Myrtle Bank, as it is not always con- 
venient for the same people to entertain guests. If there are ladies 
in the party, the latter is the better plan, as there are no sleeping 
conveniences in the hut. 

If the former plan is carried out, one must be provided with extra 
wraps and rugs, the thermometer often dropping to below forty dur- 
ing the winter months. February and March are the best months in 
which to take this trip, as then one is surer of clear weather. It is 
well to carry a good stock of provisions, as the appetite increases 
with the altitude. 

If the weather is clear, the views on the way up and from the peak 
are magnificent, and certainly repay one for the hardships and fatigue 
of the trip. 

To Yallahs and Morant Bay. — From Kingston the trip is con- 
tinued by carriage around the eastern end of the island. The first 
object of interest is Rock Fort, the remains of the old fort and wall 
which once protected Kingston on the east. This is a coast drive 
entirely. One of the oldest and best equipped of the sugar estates, 
Albion, is passed, and may be visited if desired. 

Passing through the pretty little town of Yallahs, the next impor- 
tant point is Morant Bay, from which large quantities of bananas 
are shipped. It was here, in 1866, that the uprising of the black 
people commenced. 

There is nothing of special interest in Morant Bay, but a rest of 
a few hours would better be made here before resuming the journey 
to Bath. 

To Port Morant and Bath. — Twelve miles further on is the 
little town of Port Morant, from which much fruit is shipped. Any 
one who wishes to avoid the drive may take the United Fruit Com- 
pany's steamer at Kingston and come to Port Morant ; and then by 
carriage, six miles beyond, the famous old town of Bath is reached. 

39 



Bath is very pretty, and is noted for its hot springs. Usually one 
gets good Jamaican cooking at Mrs. Duffy's lodgings. Of course, 
the baths are the objective point. A beautiful walk or drive of a 
mile and a half through the gorge brings one to the building, which 
contains a number of bath-rooms, attendants, etc. 

Accommodations for lodgers may be obtained in this building, if 
desired ; and meals will be furnished by the attendant. These baths 
are particularly efficacious in cases of rheumatism, liver, and kidney 
troubles. 

Cost of single bath, i shilling (25 cents), or sixpence (12 cents), if 
several are taken. 

From Bath the large banana estates of Golden Grove and Plantain 
Garden River may be visited. 

Bath also contains the oldest botanical garden on the island, but 
it is not now kept up. One should not fail to notice the enormous 
palm-tree in this garden. 

The main street of the town is lined with rows of Otaheite apple- 
trees, which in blossom or in fruit are equally beautiful. 

A ride of six miles may be taken from here to the famous Cuna- 
Cuna Gap, passing through the Maroon village of Hayfield on the 
way. This ride may be continued across the island through the 
Cuna-Cuna Pass to Mooretown, and thence to Port Antonio, — a dis- 
tance of twenty-five miles in all. The path is in many places steep 
and rocky; and it is essential to have good horses and to be familiar 
with riding, if one intends making this trip. This way leads through 
one of the wildest parts of the island, intensely tropical in its vege- 
tation, and where the note of the rare solitaire may be occasionally 
heard. 

It rests with the traveller to decide whether he will return to Kings- 
ton from Bath or continue his journey by carriage to Port Antonio. 

To Holland Bay. — Gentlemen will find alligator shooting at 
Holland Bay, which is also the location of the cable station, and 
may be reached from Bath. 

41 



To Port Antonio. — The drive from Bath on to Port Antonio 
is principally along the coast, about thirty-eight miles. In some 
places the surf is very beautiful, especially near the little village of 
Manchioneal. 

To the tourist who has made this trip it will seem quite like 
reaching home to be again at an American hotel, with its good food 
and its general air of comfort and cleanliness. 

Of course there are no hard-and-fast rules in this little guide- 
book. The trip around the island just mentioned can be taken start- 
ing first from Moneague, and going on to St. Anns Bay, Montego 
Bay, and back by way of Mandeville, if preferred. 

Those fond of travelling by water can always join one of the 




Entrance to Public Market, Port Antonio. 



United Fruit Company's steamers at Port Antonio, for the trip up 
and down the north coast and around to Kingston, going ashore at 



42 



the different ports where fruit is shipped. One of the most inter- 
esting sights is to see the fruit loaded from lighters at the ports 
where there is no wharf. 

There are a great many other places of interest in Jamaica, which 
it is impossible to mention in so brief a work ; but, in spending any 
length of time there, the tourist will find them out for himself. One 
of the greatest pleasures of travel is that of discovery. 




Practical Hints. 

Fees. — Be sure to carry a plentiful supply of small change for 
fees, 'bus hire, and car fares. 

A fee should never exceed i shilling (25 cents) for services 
rendered, and sixpence (12 cents) is more usual. Oftentimes three- 
pence (6 cents) will answer the purpose. 

Clothing. — An ample supply of underwear is a necessity. A 
couple of light-weight wool skirts with foulard, cotton, and lawn 
shirt waists, and one light wool or silk dress for evening wear at 
hotels, will be sufficient for quite a stay. It is damp driving in the 
early morning and in the evening, and a wrap is necessary. 

>"i I 43 




! .-? 



Rubbers, waterproofs, and umbrellas are indispensable ; but a 
heavy mackintosh is too warm. 

One's summer wardrobe of the previous year, of muslins and 
ginghams, for a prolonged stay will answer all purposes. 

A soft felt travelling hat is very good for driving, and an ordinary 
sailor hat will be suitable for other occasions. 

The atmosphere is fatal to colored kid gloves, spotting them badly. 
Silk or chamois are preferable. 

If there is room in the trunk, slip in a simple decollete evening 
gown. The Jamaica ladies wear such dresses a great deal ; and one 
is almost a necessity, in case of an unexpected invitation to a dance 
or dinner. 

Gentlemen will find their summer suits, neglige shirts, and ducks 
useful ; and it is well to carry a dinner coat, especially if the stay is 
to be prolonged. 

Connected with the hotel at Port Antonio is an excellent laundry. 
But in other parts of the island one's washing is always problemati- 
cal. In some places the women wash in the rivers, using rocks as 
scrubbing boards. 

Baggage. — It is not feasible to carry a trunk on any of the driv- 
ing trips ; and, consequently, suit-cases, light-weight valises, or other 
luggage that may be placed on the trap, are necessary. Linens, 
piques, and certain muslin and cotton goods may be bought at 
reasonable prices, and oftentimes in the shops in the smaller towns, 
like Browns Town and St. Anns Bay, there is quite a good variety to 
select from. 

There are approximately two trains per day each way from vari- 
ous principal points. Time tables are to be had at hotel offices. 
The usual railway charges are about 4 cents per mile first class 
and 2 cents per mile third class. The schedule of 'bus charges is 
given on page 47, 



45 



Rates f o r B u g g 

From Port A?itonio to Park Wagon for 5. 

£ s. d. 

Rio Grande Bridge o 14 o 

St. Margaret's Bay o 16 o 

Hope Bay 140 

Orange Bay 1 15 o 

Buff Bay 2100 

Annotta Bay . ■ 400 

Port Maria — 

Castleton Gardens — 

Kingston — 

Golden Vale 0160 

Fellowship 0120 

Windsor 100 

Mooretown 140 

Williamsfield 0120 

Blue Hole 0160 

Priest mans River 180 

Manchioneal 2100 

Port Morant — 

Morant Bay — 

Bath — 

Kingston, by way of Morant Bay . — 

* Commonly known as 'buses. 



/ e s. 



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£ s. d. 


Single Buggy 

£ s. d. 


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